Tribal food is pretty rare in large metros like Kolkata and honestly, who eats tribal food here? In fact, forget about who eats this cuisine - let’s ask ourselves what do we really know about tribal communities in India in general.

There are more than 450 registered tribes in India and Bengal has got quite a substantial number of these and yet tribal food is not really very popular here. Apart from some occasional food pop-ups and mahua − the famed alcoholic drink we do not get to taste this cuisine in the city. So, when I got to know that a new tribal restaurant has come up in New Town, Kolkata, I personally was pretty excited. And so were my friends. And thus, this post is on our experience at Dhamsa − the tribal Kitchen.

Location and ambiance of Dhamsa

Dhamsa is tucked deep inside Eco Park, Rajarhat. You need to go through Gate No. 1 and drive for around 1.5 km towards the herb garden and Golf course. Somewhere in between, after the nice marine drive (LOL), comes Dhamsa. (Dhamsa- is operational on all days, except Mondays. Hence, please set your calendar accordingly).

The primary challenge is to find the place. The signage system is pretty mixed up and you need to seek the help of the security guards for directions. For those that love to walk it’s beautiful and soothing. But for an aged person, it’s slightly difficult. But once you reach the place, it’s a thumbs up. There is an open-air sitting arrangement outside. However the food is not served here but inside the AC and well decorated room.

The pricing at Dhamsa is extremely pocket-friendly. The menu is clearly divided into two segments − the green-colored one is for snacks and is named Godhuli Bela r Adda and the orange-colored one is for the main course. The emphasis is on thalis, or set meals, but there are quite a few very interesting items.



Photo credits: Inside 1: moha-mushkil.com; Inside 1A: moha-mushkil.com
Starters at Dhamsa

We reached Dhamsa at around 3.30 pm and were extremely hungry- and thirsty too. While a beer would’ve suited us, we settled for the Hazarduari r Sherbet a.k.a green mango sherbet which was chilled and soothing and most importantly, aesthetically served in Kansa or Bell Metal tumblers. Nice stuff and at Rs. 49/- a glass.

Prawn cutlet and Egg Devil were served next. They come 2 pcs to a portion. While egg devil was pretty decent, the prawn cutlet used mashed soft-shelled prawns which wasn’t to my liking.

But what came next, was a surprise. The Banshpora mutton was definitely among the best that I’ve had in Kolkata. And contrary to many popular joints, it was actually cooked inside the bamboo. The bamboo piece was very hot and burnt when served. Four pieces are served in one portion and are sufficient for two persons. The meat is spiced adequately and extremely tasty.

This was followed by the Chicken Khorika which was fairly decent. Khorika means a type of kebab, where meat is cooked in a bamboo skewer. It’s a pretty popular dish in Assam and it was a surprise to see it here at Dhamsa.

Main course thalis at Dhamsa


Photo credits: Inside 2: moha-mushkil.com; Inside 2A: @swastika24

We ordered 2 thalis − the Panta Thali and the Borishali Thali. Apart from the thalis, one extra portion of kalo chaler bhat was ordered. And that’s where we did the mistake. The thalis were huge and we were already quite stuffed. Though the black rice was aromatic and tasty, we couldn’t finish it.

Panta Bhat was nicely finished with the mandatory onion, green chili, and gondhoraj lebu slice on top. From the accompaniments, it seemed this thali was probably conceptualized, keeping in mind, Odisha. And the Panta Bhat was like the OdisiPokal Bhat. Alubhorta and Saagbhaja were fairly decent but the mourola machh bhaja (deep-fried anchovies) stole the show! It was the star. In fact, I also liked the Borichura (lentil dumplings fried and crushed with chopped green chilies) and papad chura. This was delicious!

The Borishaler Thali was quite interesting. It consisted of simple dishes cooked to perfection. The rice used, was like Gobindobhog− small-grained and supremely aromatic. And the tok Dal (masoor dal flavored with green mango) stole the show here! The kucho machher bhuna (again from anchovies) was brilliant and literally over-shadowed the above-average chicken curry. I didn’t bother having the kochu r loti.

One bowl of black rice kheer came complimentary with the Borishaler Thali and we ordered another portion separately. It was good. Now, if you go by the looks, it’s an interesting purple-colored rice kheer − but the sticky black rice made it different and worth trying. Overall, definitely recommended.

What I liked at Dhamsa- the tribal kitchen

 Definitely the concept of having a restaurant serving tribal food in Kolkata.  The pricing − it’s super pocket friendly and meal for 2 should be around 600/-  Calm and quiet ambiance  The aesthetics of serving the food in Kansa or bell metal utensils Good, honest food taste

What can be better

 The signage can and should be better.  Need for a greater variety of meats - definitely a couple of pork dishes. And if I am over-ambitious, some country liquor!

Overall, Dhamsa is a great dining experience and will need our patronage to sustain itself. Visit the place and let me know about your experience.

Bon appetit!!!

For more information see https://moha-mushkil.com/ or indrajit.lahiri@ymail.com

Photo Credits: Banner Left: moha-mushkil.com; Banner Center: moha-mushkil.com;Banner Right: telegraphindia.com