The world is actually divided. There are the beach people. And then there are people like us: the hill people. Who get mentally transported if someone so much as mentions The Himalayas. So obviously I couldn’t have passed up an opportunity to do a special trek in West Sikkim, right in the beginning of spring. Special because we were going to chase rhododendrons. That’s right. Rhododendrons, that bloom just about once a year, leaving the thick forests of West Sikkim all fiery with their blazing reds, were in full bloom and a bunch of us outdoor and mountain-loving folks, got together in full earnest to trek up right through West Sikkim chasing these rhodos.

The group’s mentor tells us that our trail is going to be a bit of a horseshoe route: starting at Barsey in West Sikkim, we are to move northwards to a point called Jorbotey, trekking upto Thulo Dhap, touching Nepal borders at Chiabhanjyeng, descending to Chittrey and then finally coming down to a home stay in the small valley village of Uttarey.

Barshey is the entry point of the Rhododendron Sanctuary. An easy walk from a point called Hilley takes us upto Barshey. Why Barshey? Well, it is the local name of the most common fern of that region and our guide keeps pointing it out to us. The walk sets the mood for the rest of the trip. Thick forests sometimes moss-ridden pathways envelope us and with just a few steps up, we are already cloaked into a different reality. Pines and conifers block out the sun’s rays and a delicious nip in the air beckons. As we hike up a bit more, we hear someone exclaim loudly. Yes, the first rhodos have been spotted and hailed! Blazing red flowers that immediately light up an entire stretch scream out. It’s a sight to behold. Once we reach our first campsite, the porters who have been lugging our stuff around, get busy setting up the tent and, lo and behold, in hardly any time, we have cups of steaming hot tea laid out for us. The skies above us look a pristine blue and as the day comes to a close, the nip in the air gets fiercer and the woollies have to be pulled out. By the evening, stars start peeping out and a lovely dinner of hot chapattis, curries and dal is had under a starry sky.

From Barshey, as per the route, we are to climb upto Jorbotey. Almost 10,000 feet up. This is our second day of trekking up. It’s a longish climb, through forests that are dotted with rhododendrons and beautiful giant oaks trees. This time around, besides the reds, we also spot some white rhodos. They look quite different from their red cousin....if the reds looking blazing, these ones look calm and at peace with the forests around them. Enroute, our group leader informs us that it was Sir Dalton Hooker who is the final authority on rhododendrons, having researched and then penned a tome on them: ‘Rhododendrons of Sikkim, Himalayas’ way back in the 1840’s. Hats off from us Mr. Hooker! The peaks that remain elusive through the trek, suddenly emerge as our climb for the day comes to a close and we reach campsite. What a site it is: a panoramic view of the mountains, flaming rhododendrons and glistening peaks!

Our next stop is Thulo Dhap. Literally meaning a large pond or a water body. Whilst the actual campsite at Thulo Dhap turns out to be quite an expansive and a lazy spot, where the entire potter gang decides to bathe amidst the criss crossing streams and the lovely sun up above, the four hour climb to Thulo Dhap is quite a steep one. I realise there is this amazing thing about trekking. Even though you are tired and wonder how much longer at times, the thought of a goal, another milestone keeps you going. And of course, there couldn’t be a better example of team work, than this, for the trek works, only when the entire group makes it to every next point, instead of someone being left behind each time. In that spirit, you are assisted and egged on to go another notch up, each time and what starts off with just a step, turns out to be a final ascend of 12,000 feet!

Thulo Dhap as a campsite turns into one of those must-do antakshari evenings. Our ever-smiling Nepali friends liven it up with choicest Nepali songs, sometimes throwing in a popular SRK number for good measure. As the music builds up, we feel quite a breeze setting in and a bonfire is lit. With its million embers gushing out at us, each time there is a breeze, and a sweep of stars up above, it is all quite magical.

From the streams and the stretch of Thulo Dhap, we have a tough ascend upto Chittrey. We eat light and start early. It is going to be a long day and a tough trek. We navigate sharp bends and turns and climb on. As we continue, there is a point where we even touch the borders of Nepal at Chiabhenjyang, quite a relaxed checkpoint where we find the officers playing cards, having tea and welcoming us. As we reach Cittrey, our chasing of rhododendrons comes to a close. It has been a wonderful trek and our porter friends decide to celebrate it with a special dinner and rosogollas! From Chittrey we are to climb down into the villages again, leaving the forests and the rhodo trails behind us. But the sights, sounds and smells are here to stay. The sights of the blazing rhododendrons that leap out of nowhere. Or a wild yak that decides to amble along. Tall pines and watchful oaks. The smell of thick damp pine laden forests. Or the feel of a cup of hot tea in the evening. Or the lovely sun on our back as we get from one point to the other. The Barshey Rhododendrons have been left behind for another enthusiastic group like ours to explore. The scent lingers on.

The world is actually divided. There are the beach people. And then there are people like us: the hill people. Who get mentally transported if someone so much as mentions The Himalayas. So obviously I couldn’t have passed up an opportunity to do a special trek in West Sikkim, right in the beginning of spring. Speci