Dynamic Darshan Shah really needs no introduction to the city of Kolkata. ‘Firebrand’, ‘enterprising’, ‘visionary’ are some of the epitaphs that describe her best. She has single- handedly put together first Weavers Studio, then The Weavers Studio Resource Center (WSRC) and finally Weavers Studio Center for the Art (WSCA); opening out to Kolkatans treasure trove of art in its many fold – visual and performing – more so the rich heritage of Indian textile. On the verge of a very important textile exhibition in the city curated by Darshan under the auspice of WSRC we bring you the lady with Sayanti Mukherji.

What was your inspiration for starting Weavers Studio in the early ’90?

"Necessity is the mother of invention" they say. Having been separated with a 5 month old child, I came upon an opportunity to organize a series of exhibitions and festivals in Mumbai, Pune, Delhi and Kolkata related to textiles and crafts. On 7th December, 1993, I decided to start 'Weavers Studio' in a 200 sq ft room as I found that there was a demand in the market and awareness was building for natural dyed, eco-friendly, hand-crafted textiles. The mission statement of Weavers Studio “use as many hands as possible” is even more true and important today than it was 23 years ago.

When did you first start developing an interest in Indian textile, and why?

Initially I did what I did purely to earn a living. As I traveled and visited museums, met master crafts people, attended workshops and field trips, traveled to villages, production centers, flea markets and bazaars, melas and exhibitions, read books on textiles.... my interest and knowledge base expanded and before I knew it, textiles became a way of life, a passion, a need rather than a want.

Tell us more about the workings of the Resource Center?

“Weavers Studio Resource Center” was registered as a not-for-profit Trust in May 2007. The Resource Center works with the mission statement “because everybody deserves their happily ever after” and has adopted a cluster of 9 villages initiating development work that includes providing basic amenities like clean drinking water project, sanitation (toilets for the underprivileged), health care (free health camps), educational facilities like computer training for students and vocational training such as Poultry Farming for women in the area.

Earlier, in Nov 2001 'Weavers Studio Center for the Arts' was inaugurated by my father, my inspiration and my motivator, on November 1st, 2001, as a not for profit trust with the mission statement ‘GARNERING TALENT, NURTURING CREATIVITY’ to promote all performing and non performing arts. The Center is a multipurpose space for exhibitions and creativity in all its forms.

Some important exhibitions and events hosted by WSCA over the years….

Our 'Weavers Studio Center for the Arts' has coordinated SUTRA's Trade Textiles Exhibition at Birla Academy, showcased Natural Dye Display and Presentation at World Crafts Council in Iran and a UNESCO conference in Hyderabad, Indigo Exhibition in Delhi and Khadi & Kantha shows in Japan.

We have showcased excellence in theater, dance and music like "Storylines & Songscapes" of Tagore with Aparna Sen, Shaban Azmi & Rituparno Ghosh, Broken Images, Kaifi Aur Main, Caine Mutiny, Krishan vs Kanhaiya, Mera Woh Matlab Nahin Tha, Woh Lahore, Draupadi and Chakravyuh, Small Format works by Indian Masters and Satish Gupta's hugely successful exhibition at Birla Academy, auction of old masters conducted by Sharon Apparao at the WSCA in collaboration with Apparao Galleries.

This month The Center showcases ‘Baluchari Bengal, Benaras and Beyond’, no doubt a landmark exhibition in this city, why did you choose this weave for your theme?

We are initiating a series of projects through the Weavers Studio on the Baluchari. Some of the finest pieces of Baluchari textiles will be presented through an exhibition, publication, seminar and other relevant events with an attempting to draw attention to its various creative, technical and social aspects. It is accompanied by a revival project to develop contemporary textiles - recreating its traditional designs as well as exploring new directions for the future.

Two years ago, when I was looking for a Baluchari saree, my reference point was derived from the various museum collections and the pieces in our own archives. I realized that there was a total disconnect from what I had seen and what was available in the market. This led me to travel to Bishnupur and Benares in the search of the authentic Balucharis and seek an answer to certain relevant questions like: What happened to Lady Ranu Mukherji’s personal collection of Baluchari silks donated to a certain institute in the city? What about Shubho Thakur’s 400 plus pieces and his research and documentation on the subject? Why was it that at Vishwakarma - Festival of India – held in the 80s there weren’t any Balucharis from Bengal but from Benaras? How come Kaloo Hafiz’s family in Benaras has received 3 national awards over 3 generations for Baluchari, all woven in Benaras? What really was the history of Baluchar and why in the last 70 years no one has really worked on this textile? How do we justify the GI certification and status for Bengal when we have no real Balucharis being woven here anymore? Baluchari, Bengal Benaras and Beyond is an attempt at exploring many such questions.

Can you tell us about some of the interesting exhibits that the viewers can expect?

From the Tapi Collections' 29 masterpieces of rare woven & signed sarees of master weaver Dubraj. ‘Benares & Bengal comparative Balucharis’, two films on Balucharis made at different times. Jacquard and Jala loom demo and seminar with leading textile experts.

Over the years you have accumulated a formidable collection of Indian textile, how does an ordinary enthusiast view this collection, do you plan to launch a museum of your collection soon?

We have 2,500+ textiles and 3,000 books, catalogs, magazines, journals specific to textiles at our Textile Study Center located at Kasba. Most of it is already photographed and curated and available on our website. Anyone can write and request a viewing and we facilitate the same and the library can be accessed by all. We have no plans of a museum as, personally; I have not been able to work out a succession plan as yet.

What can this city expect from Darshan Shah and Weavers Studio next?

7 Exhibitions, 7 Sustainable grass root projects and cluster development initiatives, 7 seminars with published catalogues, 7 publications on Khadi, Jamdani, Muslin, Natural Dyes Kantha, Eastern & North Eastern Textiles and Indigo in Bengal & the World. May be 7 is my lucky number - 7th December is my birthday and we launched 'Weavers Studio' on 7th December too!!!

Weavers Studio Resource Centre, 5/1, Anil Moitra Road, Ballygunge Place, Kolkata – 19, Ph: 033 2440 8926. Weavers Studio Centre For The Arts, 94 Ballygunge Place, Kolkata 19, Ph: +91-33-2461 3145, M +91 9830574658

Dynamic Darshan Shah really needs no introduction to the city of Kolkata. ‘Firebrand’, ‘enterprising’, ‘visionary’ are some of the epitaphs that describe her best. She has single- handedly put together first Weavers Studio, then The Weavers Studio Resource Center (WSRC) and finally Weavers Studio Cent