Visiting the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing (AMHP) in Jaipur is a triple bonus, firstly the museum itself, secondly the building, thirdly the location. A beautifully restored haveli tucked behind the majestic Amber Fort overlooking a chatri perched on a hillock is AMHP. Being where it is, it is best to have your own vehicle when you visit. The day we visited it, the monsoon clouds were gathering overhead for the first rains of the year on the pink city.

A series of photographs document the dilapidated building before the restoration and you wonder how that mound could possibly become this stately mansion. Built around a central courtyard open to the sky with a stone bench in the centre; before venturing to see the exhibits I sit here to take in the building.

Built by Rachel Singh and her husband Pritam the same duo behind the popular Anokhi block printed fabrics, the museum is a documentation of their years of research in this field. We walk up the winding steps entering the low-roofed rooms one after another, viewing samples of historical textiles printed when only vegetable dyes were in vogue. Wall panels and angrakhas influenced by European motifs, bunches of red roses and chrysanthemums on bright yellow are beautifully displayed. Stunning geometric Ajrak in Indigo by the Muslim Khatri community of Bhuj, Gujarat, tiny and delicate Chaubundi print now almost extinct, mud resist Bagru print and gorgeous khari print in gold and silver can be seen here.

Anokhi Museum
Anokhi Museum

A section showcases the entire printing process - from how cloth is made print-ready, to color mixing, mordanting, printing and the final washing. We learn about Sanganer (a village close to Jaipur which is still a block-printing hub and the birthplace of the popular Sanganer print), we see the tools and types of blocks used and the process of block making.

Two hours and we are done. Across the courtyard is the museum store where you can pick up yardage and merchandise inspired by the collection, including books on printing. From the shop to the shades of the large umbrellas in the front courtyard where we sip nimbu panni and nibble cookies looking up at the chatri. We run for our car as the sky opens up.

Anokhi Museum,  Hours: Tuesday to- Sunday - 11am to 4.30pm.  Closed: Mondays, & major national & local holidays. Anokhi Haveli, Near Badrinath Temple, Kheri Gate, Amber, Jaipur – 28. Phone: 0141 253 0226

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